may 30: dead sea

I had huge expectations for this day—Masada, Dead Sea, Qumran—I mean, how much more “famous” can these sites be? However, I think as the day progressed, I was more and more disappointed. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves….

First thing was a visit to Masada. We climbed up the sneaky back way, which is a much shorter hike than the winding snake path on the other side. On the way up to the plateau, we passed the Roman’s siege ramp. As we caught our breath, Dr. Wright explained that Masada has become a symbol for the steadfastness and perseverance of the Jews for returning to the land. Masada represents the last time the Jews had a land rights here in Israel, and I suppose it makes sense that it has become such a huge symbol for their struggles. Also, I realized today that sometimes I hate Herod for his inhumane demands. We learned that, after traveling up the plateau, Herod probably relaxed in his swimming pool. Not too bad, right? Except that this swimming pool exists in the desert region—we’re talking 4 inches of rain or less a year. How do you fill up a swimming pool in the desert? Make your soldiers make the day-long journey to En Gedi and bring back water from there. THEN hike up the plateau and dump your measly liter or so into Herod’s swimming pool. I can’t even imagine this man’s arrogance.

Next, a visit to the Dead Sea, including swimming opportunities. Well, I did it. I swam in the Dead Sea. But I think I hated it more than I enjoyed it. The floating was cool, though—like swimming in Jello that hasn’t quite set yet. Today was a very sticky and hazy day, but on a normal day we should have been able to see across the Dead Sea to see the purple mountains of Moab. All in all, at least I can say I was in the Dead Sea.

Our next hike (which we were all dreading because of the heat) was in the Wadi David. Alongside the path, we stopped to imagine traveling through this desert land. I recited Psalm 42 (mostly) from memory and appreciate it so much more now. Dr. Wright had us imagine this scenario: you’ve been traveling for two and a half days without water. On the third day without water, you die. You reach the wadi (the bottom of a valley, where the water flows), only to find it has dried up in the summer heat. But you’ve been relying on God’s providence. And it hasn’t come. All the people traveling with you are getting restless and starting to curse your God because he hasn’t brought water yet. What are you thinking? “As the deer pants for streams of water, so my soul pants for you, O God. (Ps. 42:1)” Incredible. We continue walking up the wadi and encounter several waterfalls and pools, all from the collection of rain water draining from west of Jerusalem. Highlight of the day, by far.

The last stop for the day was at Qumran, the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. It’s such an interesting, almost cultic community, that of course it draws my attention. However, the site itself was anticlimactic: we couldn’t see the actual caves, and the museum just didn’t cut it. Don’t misunderstand—the museum was designed well, but it was not meant for real adventure-seekers, like us apparently.